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              <text>&lt;p&gt;This is the later example of a pair of Maya women’s blouses from the town of Santiago Atitlán (see &lt;a href="/items/show/241"&gt;the earlier 20th century example&lt;/a&gt;). Like style the modern world over, among the Maya in Guatemala changes in style occur from one year or one decade to the next. Santiago Atitlán is no exception. This &lt;i&gt;huipíl&lt;/i&gt; has moved from an angular rendition of birds to a very naturalistic rendering of birds and flowers, a trend in the last few decades of Maya ceremonial clothing.&lt;/p&gt;</text>
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              <text>&lt;p&gt;This is the earlier example of a pair of Maya women’s blouses from the town of Santiago Atitlán (see &lt;a href="/items/show/242"&gt;the later 20th century example&lt;/a&gt;). Like style the modern world over, among the Maya in Guatemala changes in style occur from one year or one decade to the next. Santiago Atitlán is no exception. This &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;huipíl&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt; features birds in a strictly angular style. By contrast, the later &lt;i&gt;huipíl &lt;/i&gt;has moved to a very naturalistic rendering of birds and flowers, a trend in the last few decades of Maya ceremonial clothing.&lt;/p&gt;</text>
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                <text>&lt;p&gt;Wooden saint figures, such as the one in the center, were lavishly dressed and re-dressed over time in layers of miniature clothes such as those on either side of him. Despite their European Catholic origin, &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;santos&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;santas&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt; were “Mayanized” to varying degrees, dressed in miniature versions of local dress. All of the ones here originate from Kakchikel Maya towns.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Maya people have transferred their love of copious garments in bright colors to the saint figures and say that the finer the textiles that adorn them, the more well-respected is the responsible &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;cofradía&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt; and the happier and more benevolent is the &lt;i&gt;santo&lt;/i&gt;. This is also reflective of the belief that &lt;i&gt;santos&lt;/i&gt; are actually living beings who must be dressed, fed, and honored as such. The figures were always dressed in their church context but particular care was devoted to dressing the &lt;i&gt;santos&lt;/i&gt; for their processions through town on feast days.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Sleeved shirts were not worn by the ancient Maya, but brought by the Spanish and assigned to &lt;i&gt;santos&lt;/i&gt;, as well as to men, in deference to the new overlords. Green and yellow are colors typically associated with Saint Joseph, therefore the green &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;camisa&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt;, or shirt, or one much like it, may well have adorned the &lt;a href="/items/show/139"&gt;Carlos wooden figure&lt;/a&gt; at some time. Overall, however, &lt;a href="/items/show/148"&gt;red striped clothing&lt;/a&gt; is far more common for &lt;i&gt;santo&lt;/i&gt; clothing. The long proportions of these shirts ensure that the entire body of the figure is covered as he sits or stands on the altar. This combines to Catholic traditions of modesty with age-old Maya practice to elevate status by wearing as much cloth as possible.&lt;/p&gt;</text>
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                <text>&lt;p&gt;Wooden saint figures, such as the one in the center, were lavishly dressed and re-dressed over time in layers of miniature clothes such as those on either side of him. Despite their European Catholic origin, &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;santos&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt; and &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;santas&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt; were “Mayanized” to varying degrees, dressed in miniature versions of local dress. All of the ones here originate from Kakchikel Maya towns.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Maya people have transferred their love of copious garments in bright colors to the saint figures and say that the finer the textiles that adorn them, the more well-respected is the responsible &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;cofradía&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt; and the happier and more benevolent is the &lt;i&gt;santo&lt;/i&gt;. This is also reflective of the belief that &lt;i&gt;santos&lt;/i&gt; are actually living beings who must be dressed, fed, and honored as such. The figures were always dressed in their church context but particular care was devoted to dressing the &lt;i&gt;santos&lt;/i&gt; for their processions through town on feast days.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Sleeved shirts were not worn by the ancient Maya, but brought by the Spanish and assigned to &lt;i&gt;santos&lt;/i&gt;, as well as to men, in deference to the new overlords. Red striped garments are the most prevalent in &lt;i&gt;santo&lt;/i&gt; clothing. The red saint’s &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;camisa&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt; is by no means simple, with its expensive, imported silk bands elevating the status of its &lt;i&gt;santo&lt;/i&gt; wearer and the &lt;i&gt;cofradía&lt;/i&gt; that commissioned or wove such an expensive garment. The long proportions of these shirts ensure that the entire body of the figure is covered as he sits or stands on the altar. This combines to Catholic traditions of modesty with age-old Maya practice to elevate status by wearing as much cloth as possible.&lt;/p&gt;</text>
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                <text>Unlike jackets, which were introduced by the Spanish, capes date back to representations of ancient Maya rulers. Light red with brocaded animals, this would have been worn by a &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;santo&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt; over his &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;camisa&lt;/i&gt;.&lt;/span&gt; The upper register features birds, while the animals on the lower register appear to be supernatural in nature. Bird motifs are found across highland Maya clothing, placed on garments of every kind for either gender. The birds on the red cape most closely resemble, eagles, falcons, or hawks, all of which served as &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;nawales&lt;/i&gt;,&lt;/span&gt; or shamanic animal spirits.</text>
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              <text>Bright Collection of Guatemalan Textiles</text>
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              <text>2009.42.158</text>
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              <text>318</text>
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              <text>&lt;p&gt;Small samples of the purple threads were removed from this wedding &lt;i&gt;huipíl &lt;/i&gt;for dye analysis. A few millimeters of both the lighter and darker purple threads were analyzed using Direct Analysis in Real Time mass spectrometry (DART-MS). This analytical approach enables solids to be analyzed without complex preparation. Therefore, dye analysis can be performed on very small thread samples without first extracting the dye, a laborious process that requires larger samples and risks contamination, loss, etc. The DART-MS analysis was performed by Dr. Ruth Ann Armitage, Professor of Chemistry at Eastern Michigan University. Neither of the samples contained dibromoindigo, which is found in natural purple dye made from sea snail (&lt;i&gt;Plicopurpura &lt;/i&gt;pansa). Although the specific dye was not identified, the purples in this &lt;i&gt;huipil&lt;/i&gt; appear to be modern synthetic colorants. &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;For more conservation information, please see &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;a href="/exhibits/show/conservation/project"&gt;The Threads of Time Conservation Project&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/span&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;</text>
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              <text>Photos by Bruce M. White, 2013</text>
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                <text>Wedding &lt;em&gt;Huipíl&lt;/em&gt; (Blouse)</text>
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                <text>&lt;p&gt;Although some Maya women, in recent times especially, choose to wear white Western-style wedding gowns, many continue to don fine traditional Maya blouses, skirts, and belts. The bride’s garments are wedding gifts from her future husband and his family, while her family provides the prenuptial event clothing. A particularly fine set of clothes communicates to the bride’s family that she will be well provided for after marriage. If the betrothed come from different towns, the groom’s family will purchase the bride’s clothing in the style of her town. The ceremony takes place in a Catholic church, yet the mass is usually conducted in the couple’s indigenous Maya language, here &lt;span&gt;Kakchikel&lt;/span&gt;, spoken in San Pedro Sacatepéquez.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The wedding &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;huipíl&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt; is composed of three parts to show its elevated ceremonial nature and often includes white-on-white decoration for the bottom section, as here. While white may seem a Western choice, many ancient Maya depictions of &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;huipiles&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt; show this color. This &lt;i&gt;huipíl&lt;/i&gt; features the high-prestige color of purple; however, dye testing reveals that it came from a chemical aniline dye rather than the older colorant from a Pacific coastal sea snail (&lt;i&gt;Plicopurpura&lt;/i&gt; &lt;i&gt;pansa&lt;/i&gt;).&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The purple and gold brocade across the top features repeating and nested diamonds, some of the most prevalent motifs in Maya textiles from ancient times to the present. Four-sided shapes likely reference the four cosmic directions; the Maya believe during Creation the edges of the sky were held up by four mythical brothers called &lt;span&gt;Bacabs&lt;/span&gt;. Donning such cosmograms, the wearer symbolically occupies the center of the world. There are also tree and vegetal motifs representing the Maya Tree of Life, fertility, and the perpetuity of life; all these sacred meanings would be appropriate at the  celebration of a marriage.&lt;/p&gt;</text>
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              <text>Cotton, acrylic fiber</text>
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              <text>Gift of Anne Sayre</text>
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              <text>2016.18.1</text>
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          <description>This number will sort the collections.</description>
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              <text>318</text>
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              <text>Photos by Michael McKelvey, 2017</text>
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                <text>Woman's &lt;em&gt;Huipíl&lt;/em&gt; (Blouse) with Black Background</text>
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                <text>&lt;p&gt;Contemporary &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;Chichicastenango&lt;/span&gt; examples feature an almost neon palette and may combine a traditional love of geometry with a new emphasis on flowers. A type of imagery that is often seen on traditional Chichicastenango &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;huipiles&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt; is lines of zigzags that represent mountains. The town is located in the highlands where jagged mountains rise all around and the climate is pleasant, often cool. This 2010 example shows that mountain patterns are still employed, exemplifying how the traditions of this town persist over a full century of change.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;To this day, Chichicastenango weavers still hold to a very high standard of quality. Proud weavers still want to display their weaving prowess by wearing the best blouses in the famous market and for their blended ceremonial life as Catholics and as shamanic peoples.&lt;/p&gt;</text>
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                    <text>Before repair, the neck of the &lt;i&gt;huipíl&amp;nbsp;&lt;/i&gt;was damaged.</text>
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                    <text>Photo courtesy of Renée Stein</text>
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                    <text>This image shows the neck of the &lt;em&gt;huipíl&lt;/em&gt; after repair.</text>
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              <text>2009.42.383</text>
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              <text>&lt;p&gt;The brocaded neck on this colorful &lt;i&gt;huipíl&lt;/i&gt; was badly frayed.  Conservator Patricia Ewer carefully re-aligned the threads and secured them to a small cotton patch on the inside of the &lt;i&gt;huipíl&lt;/i&gt;.  She then sewed black nylon net over the loose threads to keep the threads in place and make the design legible. The net and stitches are scarcely visible and do not disrupt the bold pattern of the garment.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;For more conservation information, please see &lt;a href="/exhibits/show/conservation/project"&gt;&lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;The Threads of Time Conservation Projec&lt;/span&gt;t&lt;/a&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;</text>
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                <text>Woman's &lt;em&gt;Huipíl&lt;/em&gt; (Blouse) with Purple Background</text>
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                <text>Clearly, the 1980s saw a brightening of the Maya blouse color palette. Vast pink and purple plain areas became common, reflecting the same value placed on those prestigious colors as in the past; however, they were solely accomplished through synthetic (aniline) dyes. Flowers are still present in this &lt;span style="text-decoration:underline;"&gt;&lt;i&gt;huipíl&lt;/i&gt;&lt;/span&gt;, but appear smaller in size and located in more peripheral design areas.</text>
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