1 10 254 https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/5f016cce64691a7521569db96c074fa4.jpg 14ee8f4e9bf5787d87a6d1108920c25f Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Non-Exhibition Images Still Image A static visual representation. Examples include paintings, drawings, graphic designs, plans and maps. Recommended best practice is to assign the type Text to images of textual materials. Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Wools Source A related resource from which the described resource is derived Courtesy of Rebecca Stone and Paula Vester https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/4f14d567ee4a3074d68161c5f3fe7215.jpg 64c362b878d58c5744e922cea42acace https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/ae334ed935fa25a3086586adf3e9af4f.wav 4685236ffacfe4f31fa1196b4c63c154 https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/4097a5a1c4be2b24e84555790e064f09.wav 4d4c2978ad452058ce0541a6103445e9 https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/f3e20e64948c1a7655b335932844480f.wav 5d59c565ad10bdbacfef550e22c55bb4 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Modern Guatemala Threads of Time Item This item type contains fields for the works in the Threads of Time exhibition. Geographic Area Central America, Guatemala, Samayac Culture Maya Date Ca. 1935 Materials Cotton Credit Line Bright Collection of Guatemalan Textiles Accession Number 2009.42.193 Exhibition Checklist Number This number will sort the collections. 318 Photo Credit Photo by Michael McKelvey, 2017 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Woman’s Ceremonial Perraje (Shawl) Description An account of the resource More complex patterns are made with tie-dyed threads only in the warp direction, in the piece at left. For a motif with curves the tying off before the dyeing takes considerably more time to accomplish, and precise planning and manual dexterity become more demanding. No matter how elaborate the patterning, the characteristic look of jaspé, its blurry edges where colors change, comes from the fact that tying off with thread is not completely exact (see examples of tie-dyed warps <a href="http://34.193.12.70/items/show/104">here</a>). Some indigo inevitably seeps into some threads more than others during dyeing. When the warps are pulled taut on the loom, one changes from white to blue a little before or after its neighbor. Real jaspé has the exact same pattern on the front face of the cloth as the back, whereas recent printed imitations do not. Though the word comes from the Andes, the Quechua concept of ukhu—the hidden revealed—seems applicable to tie-dye. When making the warps, what is hidden from subsequent colors becomes the pattern. In addition, when they are reunited in the final cloth, their potential to make patterns has become fully revealed. https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/5386130f299f791517f4b6cd64a9612b.jpg 6bb91d465004d949e94bafc122f94192 https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/66ce9b0c234bd2a94b0a64aeac650798.jpg 9865e2713a7919e18494faeef589fb5d https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/266e59d093664eae3851009026dba7f7.jpg 7271a43c98c1145c15b6a3841d72d316 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Description An account of the resource Before repair, the neck of the huipíl was damaged. Source A related resource from which the described resource is derived Photo courtesy of Renée Stein https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/269dc20ee3d1df0d1eac3f230eaf3fa8.jpg 3c80c29cc42057a492298ce54c420241 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Description An account of the resource This image shows the neck of the huipíl after repair. Source A related resource from which the described resource is derived Photo courtesy of Renée Stein https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/e29b54b6bfd0d2ecaf99472f867e44d1.wav f972d069ec2c4869020c8198b1ca850b Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Modern Guatemala Threads of Time Item This item type contains fields for the works in the Threads of Time exhibition. Geographic Area Central America, Guatemala, Chichicastenango Culture K’iche’ Maya Date Ca. 1980 Materials Cotton, acrylic fiber Credit Line Bright Collection of Guatemalan Textiles Accession Number 2009.42.383 Exhibition Checklist Number This number will sort the collections. 318 Technical Notes Related notes on the object's conservation and treatment by Michael C. Carlos Museum objects conservator Renée Stein. The brocaded neck on this colorful huipíl was badly frayed. Conservator Patricia Ewer carefully re-aligned the threads and secured them to a small cotton patch on the inside of the huipíl. She then sewed black nylon net over the loose threads to keep the threads in place and make the design legible. The net and stitches are scarcely visible and do not disrupt the bold pattern of the garment. For more conservation information, please see <a href="/exhibits/show/conservation/project">The Threads of Time Conservation Project</a>. Photo Credit Photos by Michael McKelvey, 2017 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Woman's Huipíl (Blouse) with Purple Background Description An account of the resource Clearly, the 1980s saw a brightening of the Maya blouse color palette. Vast pink and purple plain areas became common, reflecting the same value placed on those prestigious colors as in the past; however, they were solely accomplished through synthetic (aniline) dyes. Flowers are still present in this huipíl, but appear smaller in size and located in more peripheral design areas. https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/1d7f02a03fc6c84db813f4acf5a41d98.jpg 8d23fe0ad6c29dbb2cd6eeb78cfe044f https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/2886e05d7b87f2cfc28e89c873408580.jpg cd884f57d755ed9f8ac97a887f1025fb Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Modern Guatemala Threads of Time Item This item type contains fields for the works in the Threads of Time exhibition. Geographic Area Central America, Guatemala, Chichicastenango Culture K’iche’ Maya Date Ca. 1960 Materials Cotton, acrylic fiber Credit Line Bright Collection of Guatemalan Textiles Accession Number 2009.42.382 Exhibition Checklist Number This number will sort the collections. 318 Photo Credit Photos by Michael McKelvey, 2017 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Woman's Huipíl (Blouse) with Pink Background Description An account of the resource This pink blouse dates to the 1960s, as the bright coloration attests, mirroring a worldwide trend at the time. Yet the flowers remain much like those from 1945, showing how one element of a tradition may shift while others remain the same. Semi-realistic and yet abstract, these floral motifs may reflect that the country of Guatemala has been called “The Land of a Thousand Flowers” for its verdant, colorful plant life. Europeans had brought floral-patterned cloth to Guatemala centuries before; however, the Maya did not adopt this subject matter into their garments until they chose to, signaling their artistic independence. https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/c7a4d472ff27c82b8a11d0ae1bf99246.jpg 9145059bc27744e5794f922b67c9e0d1 https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/a17667bf3871bd3aad52a22ff288cbf4.jpg 2463c2a76e2d23113df245557469975b https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/f33e6a7497771e654cc674d71bd65255.jpg cc9561df9b48e126c19e693adfe0097a https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/8a3969ac3fc74a3e6311fb0c6b948039.wav ea20b93223a10a3c86b2e15fc564863f https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/ac2d14dd8a1aaa909471e4530177175f.wav 1ca03c98a4bb6c9c9eb888ab4448f441 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Modern Guatemala Threads of Time Item This item type contains fields for the works in the Threads of Time exhibition. Geographic Area Central America, Guatemala, Chichicastenango Culture K’iche’ Maya Date Ca. 2010 Materials Cotton, acrylic fiber Credit Line Gift of Anne Sayre Accession Number 2016.18.1 Exhibition Checklist Number This number will sort the collections. 318 Photo Credit Photos by Michael McKelvey, 2017 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Woman's Huipíl (Blouse) with Black Background Description An account of the resource Contemporary Chichicastenango examples feature an almost neon palette and may combine a traditional love of geometry with a new emphasis on flowers. A type of imagery that is often seen on traditional Chichicastenango huipiles is lines of zigzags that represent mountains. The town is located in the highlands where jagged mountains rise all around and the climate is pleasant, often cool. This 2010 example shows that mountain patterns are still employed, exemplifying how the traditions of this town persist over a full century of change. To this day, Chichicastenango weavers still hold to a very high standard of quality. Proud weavers still want to display their weaving prowess by wearing the best blouses in the famous market and for their blended ceremonial life as Catholics and as shamanic peoples. https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/e4bc37b93df5208f240e2e8844a7d530.jpg fd1088a7cc50c8be4d9b77e6d3d76621 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Non-Exhibition Images Still Image A static visual representation. Examples include paintings, drawings, graphic designs, plans and maps. Recommended best practice is to assign the type Text to images of textual materials. Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Wine Bottle Carrier Source A related resource from which the described resource is derived Courtesy of Grace W. Stone https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/c837284da175cca3f2bd178657129935.jpg 00c7fc065e6946c4f6a5590b963096a9 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Non-Exhibition Images Still Image A static visual representation. Examples include paintings, drawings, graphic designs, plans and maps. Recommended best practice is to assign the type Text to images of textual materials. Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource White Loincloth Source A related resource from which the described resource is derived Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, Gift of Lavinia and Landon T. Clay, 2003.774. Photo © Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/6c9a30c4416c900a7ce8651e7610d2f8.jpg 7e11b5a9cf370981ddbebbba11b9b11e https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/a4bde090a07eaa65e7a9f823b805329b.jpg 2d66a3124753188cf51a039f1a374d2f https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/1947585b30b501157757c548daaf220f.jpg fe37dadca17167d5686395db883903cc https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/1700e02fe3a56c674fa154cd2fde216e.wav f972d069ec2c4869020c8198b1ca850b https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/fe3f0f63f601e54dabfe490a31037ace.wav e14d4f413ddd8e8ab124b819f0180d68 https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/505485cdcb2363f143f9e8d7fa6a2374.wav ed2f2c11d951e95cbc21d15aef7fe87a Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Modern Guatemala Threads of Time Item This item type contains fields for the works in the Threads of Time exhibition. Geographic Area Central America, Guatemala, Totonicapán Culture K’iche’ Maya Date Ca. 1925 Materials Cotton Credit Line Bright Collection of Guatemalan Textiles. Accession Number Huipíl (Blouse), 2009.42.1; Morga (Skirt) 2009.42.2; Faja (Belt) 2009.42.421 Exhibition Checklist Number This number will sort the collections. 318 Photo Credit Photos by Michael McKelvey, 2017 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Wedding Ensemble from Totonicapán Description An account of the resource This wedding ensemble from early 20th century Totonicapán consists of a white huipíl (blouse), a blue corte (skirt), and a colorful faja (belt). Some white-on-white patterning is common among festive clothing, particularly wedding ensembles. This less traditional huipíl is pure white and its lace and ruffles indicate a strong Spanish influence, as does the extensive floral design. Although the lace was most likely created by a European and imported to Guatemala, the repeated quatrefoil flower motifs would have been familiar to the wearer from huipíl motifs reaching back to the ancient Maya era. Four-part flowers connect past and present as they are the most prevalent design on modern wedding blouses as well as on the surviving representations of ancient Maya huipíles on ceramics and in stone. In traditional beliefs, the shape may be associated with the sun, the four directions of the cosmos, or a portal to the Other Side. Thus, the motifs found in the fine lace of this wedding huipíl may well have been interpreted by the Maya as traditional imagery; this overlap embodies the idea of syncretism which notes how differing traditions may share important features. The bride’s corte is more specifically known as a morga. It was made from a heavy, indigo-dyed material woven by men on treadle looms. Characterized as an older and “more traditional” style, morgas rarely include colors other than indigo blues and white. The colorful pink, purple, green, black, and white faja is very long, made to be wound around the wearer multiple times to highlight the amount of time and skill involved in its production. Men also weave fajas, but use belt looms or foot looms, rather than the backstrap looms women use. Totonicapán belts are stiff and covered with beautiful, intricate brocaded designs, in this case predominately deer, women, birds, and plants (possibly maize plants), representing fertility and the cycle of life. This kind of imagery would have been particularly fitting for a wedding ceremony. https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/d4c498cf30609d0a4b6e9218fb15099f.jpg f1ec1634ada46285830e5bc85c60875c https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/b1c1892904ba25af2113ca9fe93e80be.jpg 995b491251ce7262ca7a7ab89f616ff6 https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/4ff6f2739d55e4476f3ba51e47a39054.jpg b41ddc5e3b7ef58434a2edc1f1445196 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Description An account of the resource Small samples of both the darker and lighter purple threads were removed from the underside of wedding huipíl. Source A related resource from which the described resource is derived Photo courtesy of Renée Stein Subject The topic of the resource Wedding Huipil Sample Location https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/b6aa197af44c7e7e8f5608aebfb4f0e1.wav f972d069ec2c4869020c8198b1ca850b https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/40fd23dde978da301acbf7de70b0f8c8.wav 1ca03c98a4bb6c9c9eb888ab4448f441 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Modern Guatemala Threads of Time Item This item type contains fields for the works in the Threads of Time exhibition. Geographic Area Central America, Guatemala, San Pedro Sacatepéquez Culture Kakchikel Maya Date Ca. 1910 Materials Cotton, acrylic fiber Credit Line Bright Collection of Guatemalan Textiles Accession Number 2009.42.158 Exhibition Checklist Number This number will sort the collections. 318 Technical Notes Related notes on the object's conservation and treatment by Michael C. Carlos Museum objects conservator Renée Stein. Small samples of the purple threads were removed from this wedding huipíl for dye analysis. A few millimeters of both the lighter and darker purple threads were analyzed using Direct Analysis in Real Time mass spectrometry (DART-MS). This analytical approach enables solids to be analyzed without complex preparation. Therefore, dye analysis can be performed on very small thread samples without first extracting the dye, a laborious process that requires larger samples and risks contamination, loss, etc. The DART-MS analysis was performed by Dr. Ruth Ann Armitage, Professor of Chemistry at Eastern Michigan University. Neither of the samples contained dibromoindigo, which is found in natural purple dye made from sea snail (Plicopurpura pansa). Although the specific dye was not identified, the purples in this huipil appear to be modern synthetic colorants. For more conservation information, please see <a href="/exhibits/show/conservation/project">The Threads of Time Conservation Project</a>. Photo Credit Photos by Bruce M. White, 2013 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Wedding Huipíl (Blouse) Description An account of the resource Although some Maya women, in recent times especially, choose to wear white Western-style wedding gowns, many continue to don fine traditional Maya blouses, skirts, and belts. The bride’s garments are wedding gifts from her future husband and his family, while her family provides the prenuptial event clothing. A particularly fine set of clothes communicates to the bride’s family that she will be well provided for after marriage. If the betrothed come from different towns, the groom’s family will purchase the bride’s clothing in the style of her town. The ceremony takes place in a Catholic church, yet the mass is usually conducted in the couple’s indigenous Maya language, here Kakchikel, spoken in San Pedro Sacatepéquez. The wedding huipíl is composed of three parts to show its elevated ceremonial nature and often includes white-on-white decoration for the bottom section, as here. While white may seem a Western choice, many ancient Maya depictions of huipiles show this color. This huipíl features the high-prestige color of purple; however, dye testing reveals that it came from a chemical aniline dye rather than the older colorant from a Pacific coastal sea snail (Plicopurpura pansa). The purple and gold brocade across the top features repeating and nested diamonds, some of the most prevalent motifs in Maya textiles from ancient times to the present. Four-sided shapes likely reference the four cosmic directions; the Maya believe during Creation the edges of the sky were held up by four mythical brothers called Bacabs. Donning such cosmograms, the wearer symbolically occupies the center of the world. There are also tree and vegetal motifs representing the Maya Tree of Life, fertility, and the perpetuity of life; all these sacred meanings would be appropriate at the celebration of a marriage. https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/da806c0d302b4dbf7d1b3288851b2bf4.jpg f15390ae53d027c40e3d52423d291552 https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/3f0ecae9c5d176609432dac10118ac82.wav f972d069ec2c4869020c8198b1ca850b https://threads-of-time.carlos.emory.edu/files/original/eb4271010d01a92df7d649a4c8798ec6.wav 1ca03c98a4bb6c9c9eb888ab4448f441 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Modern Guatemala Threads of Time Item This item type contains fields for the works in the Threads of Time exhibition. Geographic Area Central America, Guatemala, Santa Lucía Utatlán Culture K’iche’ Maya Date 1920s Materials Cotton, acrylic fiber Credit Line Bright Collection of Guatemalan Textiles Accession Number 2009.42.164 Exhibition Checklist Number This number will sort the collections. 318 Photo Credit Photo by Bruce M. White, 2013 Dublin Core The Dublin Core metadata element set is common to all Omeka records, including items, files, and collections. For more information see, http://dublincore.org/documents/dces/. Title A name given to the resource Wedding Huipíl (Blouse) Description An account of the resource Made in a very small farming village, Santa Lucía Utatlán, this wedding blouse displays clear Spanish elements. Departing from traditional choices, this wedding huipíl has only two panels instead of the usual three. It also incorporates an elaborate machine-made lace collar and cuffs, their gathering clearly indicating the Hispanic influence. Yet the white-on-white brocade on the bottom third of the huipíl is typical of Maya wedding wear and the bands of bright colors indicate that its maker was a skilled weaver of brocade. Tree motifs appear on the white section, either representing the ceiba (silk-cotton) tree, from whose roots the ancient Maya believe their bloodlines originated, or the pine tree, which symbolizes long life and elite status. Red, purple, and yellow are customary colors for huipiles, as are banded stripes. Zigzag bands have been identified in ancient Maya textiles as water imagery, while rhomboids and diamonds may depict the four parts of the cosmos. The materials used in the brocade of this blouse are not the age-old cotton one might expect. New synthetic yarns are dyed with aniline dyes, giving them an extra shiny and almost brassy appearance. These choices reflect the continued Maya love of color, but alter the brightness and texture of the traditional Maya palette.